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Let’s Do The Mash!

The mash – An American Cream Ale

The mash is where the magic starts and the starches found in the grain are turned into fermentable and unfermentable sugars.  This is done by enzymes which break the chains of glucose which make up the starch, these enzymes are called beta amylase and alpha amylase and it is primarily these two enzymes at work in your mash. They both work together to break down the starch in the mash. Alpha amylase can be described as breaking the starch chains in half which are then broken down further by beta amylase which nibbles at the ends of these already broken chains. The starch is broken down into a range of sugars including glucose, maltose and maltotriose.  However parts of the starch remain intact and this is what forms some of the unfermentable dextrins which add sweetness, body and mouthfeel to a beer.

Each enzyme has a certain temperature range it prefers which helps brewers create specific beer styles. Alpha amylase works best between 68-75 C creating sugar chains which are less fermentable, along with maltose and unfermentable dextrins this then makes a beer with more body.  Beta amylase works best between 54-65 C and breaks the sugars down further, mainly into maltose, making them more fermentable achieving higher attenuation and a thin body. Therefore the general rule is that a lower mash temperature will create more fermentable sugars and a thinner body, resulting in a lower FG, a high mash temperature will create less fermentable sugars and give a high SG. Both enzymes work to an extent in the temperature range 64 – 70 degrees c. Some brewers mash using both temperature ranges for both enzymes and therefore achieve a higher level of starch conversion resulting in a crisp and dry beer.  This process is often used to make lager.

These two enzymes also prefer a different mash PH with Alpha amylase preferring a higher PH of between 5.3–5.7 and beta amylase preferring a PH of between 5.1–5.3. This along with the mash temperature can result in the brewer achieving a different style of beer. Altering the PH of your mash must be done by altering the PH of your strike water first. This is a trial and error method to be perfected over numerous brews until it’s right.

Enzymes exist in the barley seed to help provide nutrients as the seed grows.  Maltsters stop this enzyme production when it is at it’s peak and they remain in the grain until it is mashed.

Dough In

This is where the grains are mixed with the water you need to ensure that there are no dough balls for easy conversion of the starch to sugar. Some brewers like to start this at a lower temperature between 38 – 49 degrees C called the dough in rest which enables the enzymes that work best at lower temperatures to start breaking up the starch chains into sugars. This isn’t a step I have done as I get the water to mash temperature first and then add the grain, however beer making is full of different kinds of methods that can potentially improve the efficiency and flavour of your final beer.

Protein Rest

The next step after the dough in this is done at temperatures between 44–60 degrees C and is another incremental step in the mashing process allowing certain enzymes to do their job.  Again, though, this isn’t a step I have done before so you don’t need to worry too much it’s just an option to try when experimenting with beer making.

Saccharification (Conversion of starch to sugar)

This is the main show where you can mash anywhere between 60 and 70 degrees depending on the desired type of beer, low temperatures for thinner beers with higher attenuation and high temperatures for beers with a fuller body and more malty flavours. The most common mash temperature is around 67 degrees C where both alpha amylase and beta amylase can work.

Mash Out

Raise the temperature to 74 degrees or higher where enzyme activity is not possible for five to ten minutes to preserve your sugar profile.

You can check the starch conversion of your mash by doing an iodine test.  Take a sample of wort that doesn’t have any grain particles in it and add a few drops of iodine, if there is any starch present this will turn black. Otherwise the colour should be a reddish colour or a strong red colour for a wort that has been mashed at a higher temperature and therefore has more dextrins present.

Hope this little guide helps and if you have anything to add let us know, brewing is a constant learning curve : ) Cheers!




‘Merry Christmas ya filthy animal’ … Spiced Winter Beer

Although this one isn’t quite ready yet, I tasted the wort and if I do say so myself it was amazing! It has a nice after taste of cinnamon with a small aroma of cloves and a little bite from some ginger.  So I thought I would throw it out there! However if you’re not a fan of mulled wine then this one definitely isn’t for you, as it has a distinctive mulled flavour.


Ingredients and Method – Makes 5 Gallons/23 litres

4 kg Maris Otter
700 g Crystal malt
40 g Chocolate malt

Mash for 60 minutes at 68 degrees

Sparge at approx 78 degrees.  I used the Inkbird to control the temperature which saved a lot of time and hassle!

The Inkbird ITC-308 Plug N Play

Boil for 60 minutes.

Hop Additions

35 g Challenger – 60 minutes
10 g East Kent Goldings – 15 minutes
10 g Challenger – 15 minutes
15 g East Kent Goldings – 0 minutes
10 g Challenger – 0 minutes

Spice Additions

1½ tsp Cinnamon
1 tsp Nutmeg
½ tsp Ginger
½ tsp Cloves

Safale s-04 yeast

Add 1 tsp of Irish Moss at 15 minutes.

Add all spice additions during the boil at 10 minutes from the end.

Ferment for approximately 7 days or when your hydrometer reading is stable over 48 hours. Ideal fermenting temperature is 20 degrees, any where between 20 and 25 degrees will be fine though.

Start gravity reading: 1.044
Final gravity reading: 1.016

Leave to mature for at least 6 weeks.





Adjusting the Balance of Flavours in Cider and Carbonation

two applesCider making is generally quite straight forward and a lovely tasting cider can be achieved with very little effort however depending on the apples you are using you may need to adjust acidity levels, sweetness and tannin.

Acidity in your cider

The acidity is usually determined by the variety of apples used, traditionally apples that are similar to wild crab apples are considered perfect for making cider.  However your juice can be altered when you first collect the juice from the apples. This can be done in a small quantity first, just a cup full, you can then check the taste and check the ph with an acid testing kit. Be careful not to use ph testing kits for soil as these are not accurate enough. Acid gives cider it’s crisp taste so without it the cider would lack flavour it is essential to have some  present for a good quality cider.  It is also essential for fermentation as a cider with low acid and a high ph will make it susceptible to bacterial infections at the early stage of fermentation.  The ph you are looking to achieve is between 3.2 – 3.8.  The rule is that as the acidity goes up the ph goes down and vice versa.

Lowering the acidity 

Precipitated chalk will lower the acidity add approximately 1 teaspoon per gallon, it will reduce the acidity by 1½ parts per thousand. Make sure you have enough head room in your fermenter as it froths up quite a bit when added. Be careful not to over do it and if you don’t have an acid testing kit keep tasting until you have the correct flavour, keep in mind that there should always be a slight flavour of the acid coming through. You can also blend your juice with another which is lower in acidity which should help to bring it down too.

Increasing acidity

Malic acid is found naturally in apples and will increase the acidity.  Add approximately one teaspoon per gallon and again as above be careful not to over do it and keep tasting it or test it with an acid kit until the desired flavour/ph is reached.

Adjusting Tannin

Add one level teaspoon per gallon to increase the levels of tannin, tasting as you go so that you don’t add too much. To lower the level of tannin finings can be used as the tannin particles are usually negatively charged, adding particles that are positively charged results in them sticking together they then sink to the bottom of the fermenter. There is more information on using finings in your cider here:

Adjusting the sweetness

I like cider to be sweet in which case adding sweetener or apple juice to your brew at the end of fermentation will increase the sweet flavour. Rack off the cider into a secondary

A nice sweet french cider, yum!

fermenter and add the sweetener or apple juice until the desired flavour is achieved. The sweetener will not ferment but the apple juice will so it’s worth adding  campden tablets to stop any vigorous ferment. The dosage is one crushed tablet per gallon.


To ferment to dry cider you need to allow the ferment to progress fully. If you’re racking the cider off into another vessel for a secondary ferment you can add some granulated sugar, 170 grams per gallon, this will not increase the alcohol much but it will produce an average strength cider which tastes great.  Remember to make the sugar into a solution first with just a small amount of water before adding to the secondary vessel. Top your fermenter up to just below the lid/bung and move to a warm place to ferment again. Once the hydrometer reading is stable over 48 hours it can then be bottled.

Carbonating your cider

Adding sugar once fermentation is complete either in the bottles or in a secondary fermenter will add fizz to your cider.  We recommend 2 heaped teaspoons or 2 to 3 crafty fox dropscarbonation drops in each bottle depending on personal preference. Alternatively you can also batch prime using sugar we recommend about 110 – 150 grams of sugar per 23 litres, to do this make up the sugar solution with enough water to liquidize it, allow to cool, then add to your secondary fermenter, once this is done you can syphon your cider onto it and then transfer to bottles. Be careful to avoid any splashing or exposure to oxygen. The bottles then need to be positioned in a warm place at room temperature to kick start carbonation which should take between 2 and 4 weeks.
Another more purist way of carbonating you cider is to transfer it to the bottles just before fermentation is complete. However it is difficult to predict how much carbonation you will achieve and at what point towards the end of fermentation to transfer it.  You would need to monitor the brew with a hydrometer, generally you would need to bottle once the reading is approx 1.010, although this isn’t an exact science and would require some experimentation.  If you are just starting out on your cider making journey I would recommend the first carbonation method above.

Happy brewing!!

Wort Aeration/Oxygenation

Wort aeration is crucial to a successful fermentation and is required at only one point during the beer making process which is primary fermentation. This applies to both all grain and kit brewing, ensuring there is enough oxygen in your wort allows for a healthy fermentation as oxygen is crucial for yeast cell health helping it to grow new yeast cells.  It allows yeast to produce sterols and some unsaturated fatty acids which are crucial for cell growth and can only be produced in the presence of oxygen. A lack of oxygen will result in poor yeast growth leading to low attenuation and an inconsistent or stuck ferment.

How to get oxygen into your wort:

If brewing from all grain, after the boil it is crucial to aerate the wort and then pitch the yeast at a cool temperature as oxygen is more soluble at cooler temperatures.  This is especially crucial for any sugar rich worts as the oxygen is less soluble in a high gravity wort and the yeast also has more work to do therefore it needs to be ultra healthy. The methods for most home brewers of getting oxygen into their wort are basic, that is giving it a good stir, shake or splash, for example when adding water to a beer kit you can make a few good splashes that will add oxygen or if brewing from all grain after the boil when transferring your wort from the kettle to the fermenting vessel you can ensure a good bit of splashing goes on here too.  It’s basic but all the above methods are good ways of getting oxygen into your brew and according to Wyeast their experiments have found that out of all the methods of introducing oxygen to your wort splashing and shaking are pretty efficient. Although you can purchase aeration stones to impart an exact amount of oxygen if preferred. It is possible to over oxygenate a wort which distracts the yeast from converting sugars to alcohol however this would be very hard to achieve with the basic methods mentioned above.

All of this means that during primary fermentation it doesn’t matter if your fermentation vessel is not airtight, as oxygen at this point is not detrimental to your brew. With some beers such as a Saison a second aeration may even be required. An airlock that isn’t bubbling isn’t always a sign of a vessel that isn’t airtight either, some fermentations do not create enough pressure to push the Co2 through the airlock or the airlock maybe over filled. Some kit beers recommend an airtight seal during primary fermentation however as you can see from the information above this is not necessary. As the brew ferments a Co2 blanket is formed which protects the wort from air born bacteria and the lid just stops dust, insects etc from falling in.  Obviously if the beer is then transferred to a secondary fermenter the effectiveness of this Co2 blanket is decreased.

I hope this has been useful and if you have anything to add please let us know in the comments section.

Happy Brewing!!


Sugars in Beer Making

sugar close upThere are a variety of sugars in beer making all of which can add different qualities to your beer. They can be added to lighten body, add flavour and increase the alcohol content. I have put together this guide which will hopefully help in any brewing decisions concerning sugar. Firstly I’ll go into a bit of background:

What Is Sugar Exactly?

Sugar can be found in many different forms and varies in sweetness and complexity. It is a natural product that is essential to life and of course fermentation. Sugars are found in the tissue of plants and our own brains need 130 grams of glucose per day just to cover basic energy needs. The sugar you use at home ‘table sugar’ or ‘granulated sugar’ is usually derived from sugar cane or sugar beet and all sugars are carbohydrates although some are already refined such as granulated sugar, others need to be broken down into sugar from starch, so for example potatoes, corn, wheat, rice and barley all contain starch which can be broken down into sugar. The most common type of sugar is glucose and is a monosaccharide, a simple sugar, which is derived from starch from the foods mentioned above. This is fermentable and can be found in the wort after the mash, however not all the sugars in the mash are fermentable for example there is some unfermentable Dextrin in the wort however this makes up only a small percentage of the total sugars.

Fermentation and Sugar

During the mash the starch in the grain is converted to sugar which can then be fermented. There are a number of different sugars found in the mash and the yeast likes to tackle them one at a time, most brewer’s yeast will start with sucrose and move on from there, studies have found:

Sucrose: The yeast starts on this first breaking it down into glucose and fructose. It will then consume the glucose first then the fructose. The yeast breaks down the sucrose using the enzyme invertase.

Glucose: After the sucrose the yeast moves on to glucose there is a surprising amount of glucose in each wort but the percentage does vary depending on grain bill, mash temperature and PH.

Fructose: Once again even though fructose makes up a small percentage in most worts this is the first to be fermented after glucose.

Maltose: As a general guide about half of the sugars found in wort are maltose. Although this can vary depending on grain bill and mash temperature. This is one of the last sugars to be fermented.

Maltriose: This sugar is the last to be consumed by the yeast.

Dextrin:  Often in the form of maltotetraose and is not fermentable and helps to add flavour and body to your brew.

All of these sugars,  apart from fructose are broken down into glucose first and metabolised.

Using Sugars in Beer:

Honey: Honey can be used during primary fermentation or secondary and is about 95% fermentable.  When using it for primary fermentation it will lighten your beer and give it a smooth body, this will also add the flavour of honey to your beer and increase the sweetness.  If you’re aim with honey is to increase the alcohol level then it needs to be added at the boiling stage. felicia-hallenbeck-67678If you’re adding honey during the primary fermentation phase you need to make sure that it is heat treated or pasturised as it can carry wild yeasts and bacteria that could ruin your beer. Of course adding honey to the boil will kill off any unwanted yeasts etc but it will also kill of the flavour so this method will only increase the sugar content and therefore the alcohol. Depending on which honey you use it adds a delicate floral note to the beer, my current favourite is Heather honey.  Recommended honey dosage during primary fermentation as a percentage of the total fermentables is: 3-10% for subtle flavour and 11-30% for a strong honey flavour. Using honey for carbonation can add a little flavour and will carbonate your beer.

Black Treacle: This can be used in old traditional British beers, like Old Peculiar. It is approx 55% sucrose so contains a large amount of sugar that the yeast likes to eat first. It can be added during the boil, primary fermentation or secondary. Small quantities are recommended for all as it can be quite a strong taste.  It can be added in the boil like a hop addition, one recipe I found added 300g of black treacle at the 20 minute mark of a 60 minute boil, a large amount of hops was also used to counteract the sweetness 100 grams at the start of the boil. Treacle can also be used in primary fermentation for both kits and all grain brews , just add it to your fermenter however a little experimentation with amounts would be needed to hit the flavour you prefer.

Fruit: There is currently a wide variety of fruit beers available, Grapefruit I’ve noticed is a particularly popular one and makes a refreshing Summer wheat beer. This like many other popular brewing fruits is low in sugar which means it doesn’t over power the beer jakub-kapusnak-296131and instead lingers in the back as an after taste. Sugary fruits don’t work as well in beers because the flavour doesn’t always come through correctly. Certain beers also pair well with fruit making a tasty fruit beer where the fruit flavour is in harmony with the beer flavour. Wheat beer is a good example of this as the fruit and wheat compliment each other. Various forms of fruit can be used for example fresh, canned or frozen.  Obviously there is a risk with adding fruit to a nice clean brew but it is usually ok and I haven’t heard of any instances where the fruit ruins the beer.

How much fruit do I add?
The amount of fruit you add depends on the fruit you are using and the desired flavour however it is usually quite a lot. For example one suggestion from a website is 30-375 grams of raspberries per litre of beer.  The good thing is that you can experiment and see what you prefer.

When can I add the fruit?
Fruit can be added at multiple stages, the boil, primary and secondary fermentation (not carbonation).  When added during the boil the fruit will only impart a delicate flavour and it is best to add it at the end of the boil as you would a final hop addition.  Adding fruit during primary fermentation imparts more of the fruit flavour to your beer and also saves on transferring your beer from one fermenter to another which reduces the rick of exposure to oxygen, but the rate of fermentation means that some of the fruit flavours will be lost as the yeast does it’s job. Adding the fruit during a secondary fermentation allows the beer to absorb the most fruit flavour whilst in the secondary vessel, the only thing to be careful about when doing this is exposure to oxygen as you transfer your wort from one vessel to another.  If you’re wanting an intense fruit flavour then I would recommend adding the fruit during a secondary fermentation.  Once the fruit is added to your secondary vessel you then need to leave it for at least a week and continue with fermentation, after this it is up to you how long you leave it before transferring to bottles/barrel. Keep tasting it until you have achieved the desired flavour. Fruit additions can also be done with kit beers just follow the methods above for either primary or secondary fermentation.

Candi Sugar:  This is a rich sugar that is used with Belgian style ales and can be added towards the end of the boil.  It is used to increase the alcohol in a beer without making it too sweet.

Molasses: Similar to treacle it has a strong flavour and can be used in the same way as treacle.

Maple Syrup: Another highly fermentable sugar it is similar to fruit in that it is best added after primary fermentation to retain flavour.  Adding it to a secondary fermentation allows the flavour to be maintained as there is a reduced amount of yeast in the secondary vessel, as most of it will have been left behind when transferred. I’ve also read that it is essential to maintain a low fermentation temperature around 18 degrees C so that the maple syrup flavour is not lost with any Co2 production during secondary fermentation. You can also use maple syrup to prime your bottles or keg and the beer again should retain some of the maple flavour.

Please note that using a hydrometer to track the progress of your fermentation when adding any sugar is useful so that you know how your fermentation is progressing.

I hope this guide has been useful, if you have anything to add just let me know in the comments.

Happy Brewing!!










Firework Cream Ale


This has a nice American flavour from the yeast, it isn’t too hoppy like some and has an overall sweet taste.

I must admit the first thing that appealed to me about this beer was the title, but then I started looking into it and thought this would be a good one to try out.  As a beer it has it’s origins in 1880s America when American breweries wanted to compete with the new lagers that were spreading through the market after the civil war. The original American brewers used ale yeast to ferment it but it can be fermented cold with lager yeast (I’ll be sticking to the ale yeast). It was a move away from British style ale towards a more German ‘lagerish’ flavour. It’s quite a versatile beer and can be experimented with so the quantities below can be altered. This recipe was adapted from a recipe found on Brewtoad.


Start gravity: 1.053
Finish gravity: 1.012

Mash temperature: 65 degrees C

Sparge water temperature: 75 degrees C

Boil length: 90 minutes

Hop additions: 14 grams at the start, just wait until it’s achieved a good rolling boil then add the first addition, then add 7 grams at 30 minutes. Add Irish Moss 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

Ferment at 20 to 24 degrees try to keep your temperature as constant as possible, mine fermented at 24 degrees. Ferment for approximately 7 days.

I made mine using the Grainfather, it’s a great contraption that makes the brewing process fuss free and efficient.

Fermentation – What to Expect

Damson Wine

Brews ferment in different ways and at different speeds, there is no hard and fast rule of what to expect. Once a brew has been mixed up and the yeast added, a brew will then start it’s fermentation. In some cases you will see vigorous action, foam and froth, bubbles, the airlock or even the lid may need removing to allow for it, other times there will be very little to see and the airlock will never bubble. In the case of a vigorous ferment this will usually last for only a day or two, then it will calm right down and just slowly finish fermenting, or in the case of a much calmer ferment it may take longer, but it will get there.

You may or may not have bubbles rising though your airlock if using one, and the lid of the bucket may dome upwards with any pressure inside the vessel. An airlock will not always bubble but this is nothing to worry about, sometimes there is not enough pressure to force any gases past the water in the airlock, or there may be the tiniest of holes somewhere, either on the lid or where the airlock is fitted to the lid, and any gas will always escape through the point of least resistance. It does not matter, your brew does not need to be airtight during this initial stage, the main idea is just to keep any contaminants out. Indeed some starter kits do not come with an airlock, they just say to loosely fit the lid to allow any gases to escape, the main idea is that gas can escape to avoid any excess pressure in the vessel.

The speed and amount of action you will see from a fermentation depends on many factors, including the brew itself, the yeast used, temperature, etc. As a general guide warmer temperatures produce a more vigorous ferment, and cooler temperatures a slower fermentation, with some brews slower fermentations can improve the end result, but also test your patience!

It is common for the sediment to settle to the bottom of the vessel and cause a layer of debris, this can be in the form of a ‘sludge’ or thick layer, and sometimes you will get froth, or a ‘scum’ like appearance on the surface with bits in it, this is all part of the fermentation process and is nothing to worry about.

There is only one true way to know how your fermentation is doing – use a hydrometer to take readings. Ideally take a reading at the start once the brew is mixed then you have a number to compare progress to, then after a few days you can take another reading and monitor how it is doing, the reading will steadily get lower on the scale as it nears completion. It is not uncommon for people to think their brew is not fermenting, but when checked with a hydrometer the reading shows the brew has actually finished, so always check to be sure.

If a brew stops and you believe you have a ‘stuck’ fermentation, in the first instance giving it a stir will often get it going again, and making sure the temperature is nice and warm will give the yeast it’s best chance. ‘Re-start’ yeast is available if needed, but try stirring it first and check the reading a day or so later.

You know you are ready to either move on to the next stage or transfer your brew to a keg (barrel) or bottles when the reading is nice and low, some manufacturers give a reading on your hydrometer to aim for, and also when all signs of any small bubbles rising through the liquid to the surface have stopped completely (bubbles and froth may still be on the surface). The reading should then be checked again after 24 hours to be sure that it hasn’t changed and is exactly the same. No bubbles rising and a constant low reading show it is ready for moving on to the next stage. If you’re not sure, wait an extra day or so and check again, this is particularly important if transferring your brew to bottles as bottling too early means there could be gas still being produced, and in a bottle this excess pressure has nowhere to escape, at least in a barrel there is a safety vent for releasing any excess pressure if needed. The idea is simple;

– Try and maintain a nice warm temperature (as recommended by the manufacturers if applicable) – often around 20 to 24 degrees C
– Take an initial hydrometer reading. After the yeast is added cover the vessel and leave it to get on with it
– Take a reading after a couple of days to check on it’s progress if needed, otherwise wait for any bubbles to stop rising
– Check with your hydrometer that the reading is nice and low, then compare it to a second reading 24 hours later
– Once you are sure it is finished, move on to the next stage, if not sure, give it another day or so

Lisa’s Damson Wine Recipe

Damsons with a few Blackberries peaking through.

This makes a beautiful wine with plenty of flavour and for me it’s perfect because I like a sweet fruit wine.  As a side it also makes a very good jam so if you have any left over I recommend doing that.  I based my recipe on 130 New Winemaking Recipes however my method differs slightly.


Fermenting vessel
Glass demijohn
Chefs Muslin
Hydrometer (Not necessary but good to have so you know fermentation is complete)
Glass wine bottles (approx 6 bottles)IMG_3893


2.7kg Damsons for really good body
Campden tablet
1.3kg brewing sugar
Super Wine Yeast Compound

4.5 litres of water


  1. Give the Damsons a good soak in cold water just to make sure there are no creepy crawlies lingering.
  2. Pour 3.5 litres of boiling water over the damsons and half of the sugar then crush carefully. Stir well to ensure the sugar has dissolved and allow to cool to 25 degrees before adding the Pectolase (2 level teaspoons per gallon) and Super Wine Yeast, 1 heaped teaspoon will be fine. After a few hours mine still hadn’t cooled down so I topped it up to 4.5 litres using cold water which brought my temperature down to about 25 degrees C.
  3. Cover loosely and place somewhere warm about 20 degrees for 48 hours to allow fermentation to
    Primary ferment in initial fermenter for 48 hours.

    start.  The cover will just stop any dust or bits in general from dropping in.  Don’t worry about exposure to oxygen at this point as the yeast needs it for energy to reproduce.

  4. Put the remaining sugar into another vessel/demijohn and then syphon the wort onto it. If you don’t have enough liquid just top up to 4.5 litres with cold/warm water (keep an eye on your temperature it needs to stay around 20 degrees C). At this point the wort will be cloudy but because the pectolase was added earlier this will help to stop any haze from forming. Please note it will take a while for the yeast to get going again but don’t worry it will, just make sure it is at about 20 degrees C.

    Adding the sugar
  5. Transfer to another vessel when the wine is clear to remove it from the sediment bed. To ensure fermentation is complete take two hydrometer readings over a 48 hour period, if they remain the same it has finished if not ferment on until the readings are the same. Then add one crushed campden tablet per gallon to sterilise and preserve.
  6. Bottle and leave to mature. 



Colin’s Bramble (Blackberry) Wine Recipe




1.3Kg Brambles (Soak in water to remove any wee beasties and dirt)
1.25Kg Brewing sugar
4 Litres water
Super Wine Yeast Compound Sachet


Bowl or small bucket
Fermenting vessel it’s best to use a 1 gallon/4.5 litre fermenter.
Syphon tube
Sieve and colander

Method (makes approx 4.5 litres):

  • Sterilise all equipment thoroughly.IMG_20170815_194821
  • Put the fruit in a bowl and mash, then pour 4 litres of boiling water over the fruit, cover loosely and leave overnight.
  • Strain the liquid through a colander and then a sieve onto the sugar and stir to dissolve. You don’t have to get all the bits out at this stage. (This can be done in a bucket/fermenter)
  • Add super wine yeast sachet, leave to ferment for 7 days between 20 and 25 degrees C.
  • After this is complete stir and leave for 1 hour then transfer to a secondary fermenter, using a sieve to remove most of the bits. (You could put it back in your original clean bowl/bucket wash out your fermenter and put it back again.)IMG_20170814_200942
  • Then leave in a dark place at a slightly lower temperature of 18 degrees C for one month.
  • Syphon into into another fermenter and leave for a further 4 months.
  • Transfer into bottles and leave for 3 months for the flavour to develop. Waiting is the worst part!
  • Just a little tip, if there is any jelly left at the bottom of the bottles this goes really well with ice cream!

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